In late December 2024, reports broke highlighting instances of animal mistreatment on some New Zealand farms within the highly sought after New Zealand Merino ZQRX programme. While these reports are deeply concerning, it’s important to recognise that they are not representative of the entire ZQRX initiative, or the New Zealand wool industry as a whole. The NZ Merino Company has stated that such cases are isolated and do not reflect their overall standards and integrity. 

However, these events have highlighted how brands have come to trust and surrender responsibility to certification schemes without follow-up or performing their own investigations or due diligence. There have been similar revelations in the organic cotton supply chain when it was revealed that some 20,000 tonnes of cotton were fraudulently labelled as GOTS certified organic cotton, leading to bans, investigations, and criminal prosecutions. 

The majority of these reports are unfortunately spotlighting issues in the natural fibre supply chain, as they involve living things, such as people, natural plants, and animals. Many brands reading the PETA article may be shocked into thinking they cannot trust any certifications for natural fibres, but is turning to synthetics the better option? 

When choosing between natural animal fibres and synthetic alternatives, brands must weigh multiple factors. Wool is a renewable, breathable, biodegradable resource, but it requires brands to uphold responsible animal welfare practices. In contrast, synthetic fibres, while eliminating animal welfare and methane emission concerns, are derived from non-renewable fossil fuels, contribute to microplastic pollution, and do not biodegrade at end of life. Both options have their considerations, and staying true to your business values is crucial when deciding on which way to go. 

Currently, there are debates between leading animal textile organisations and the EU government, who are currently drafting a Product Environmental Footprint, or PEF. The PEF is meant to inform customers on the environmental impact of a particular product, helping to aid in better decision-making. However, the methodology for the PEF has been contested by many groups, saying it penalises natural materials due to its score in a life cycle assessment – which does not take into account wear, care, or end of life. The PEF also assesses the durability of a garment based on a default ‘lifespan’ – not on the actual quality or product design. This all contributes to making the PEF system more favourable to synthetic garments, rather than natural materials. 

With an increasing interest in understanding the true impact of the products, we are starting to see previous assessments and data being questioned and reviewed. Most recently, a study has been done to look at the true environmental impact of the bovine leather industry, where it was revealed that the values for several parameters of the life-cycle assessments previously undertaken were much lower than previously indicated. With developments in technology and more demand for accurate information, could we see rating systems reviewed and updated to prioritise natural materials over synthetic? 

As you can see, the decision between natural or synthetic is not an easy one. The key is to make the best choice for your customers and ensure traceability, ethical sourcing practices, and end-of-life solutions are designed into your products from the beginning. 

Optimising recycled materials is also a great option. By using recycled wool for example, there is no need to worry about the treatment of the sheep, the methane they release or the working conditions of the shearer on the farm, as the material already exists! 

If you decide to stick with wool, these reports have underscored the need for enhanced due diligence within the supply chain. It is time for stronger collaboration between NZ Merino, farmers, unions, and brands, working together to strengthen practices to prevent future occurrences.  

Brands also have an opportunity to increase their own due diligence by utilising ZQRX’s traceability platform and taking the time to map the supply chain. It will be important to develop a comprehensive Animal Welfare Policy that outlines your expectations of applying the Five Freedoms of animal welfare throughout your supply chain and upskills your team and suppliers on the non-negotiables. 

Rather than dismissing New Zealand wool due to the actions of a few, the industry should focus on continuous improvement, stronger oversight, and proactive collaboration to ensure animal welfare remains a top priority. 

Written by Vanessa Thompson, Director of Supply Chain & Textiles